Corsets are making a huge comeback in modern fashion, especially among the younger generation. You’ve probably spotted them being flaunted by women in period dramas like “Bridgerton.” However, corsets have existed since the dawn of fashion history. In the past, they were designed to shape women’s torsos to fit society’s unrealistic beauty standards, at the expense of their comfort. Once a symbol of oppression and subjugation of women, the corset has been revolutionalized in contemporary fashion to empower them and enhance their confidence.
Fashion gives us insights into the values and culture of a specific time and place, and corsets are no exception. The corsets can be traced back to ancient Greece, but it was during the Victorian era that they gained widespread popularity. This article will dive into the fascinating history of this body-shaping garment and its modern-day iterations, highlighting how it reflects the state of women.
Table of Contents
The History of Corsets
The earliest depictions of figure-enhancing garments can be found in the Minoan civilizations (1500BC) that inhabited the island of Crete. A Minoan snake goddess figurine can be seen wearing a kind of bodice, circling her breasts but not entirely covering the upper body. These corset-like garments appear in various Minoan artworks, worn by both men and women and were likely used for ceremonial purposes rather than everyday wear.
The next corset-like garment was the “zone” in ancient Greece, which resembled a belt and was worn by adult women as a sign of sexual maturity. It was designed to cinch women’s waists and traditionally removed by husbands on their wedding night. They were made of linen and wool and decorated with beads and gold or silver threads.
16th century
In the 16th century, shapewear known as “bodie” or “stay” was prevalent in the French court. It is believed that they were designed for orthopedic support, with surgeons claiming that it would correct the “crookedness of the body”. As small waists were idolized during this time, the stays had a funnel-like structure that flattened the abdomen. They were commonly worn both as undergarments and as outerwear, serving to accentuate the fullness of the chest and the skirts, while making the waist appear smaller.
To maintain the rigidness of the garment, a busk was used in its casing, which is a flat object made of wood and whalebone. Furthermore, an article known as a stomacher, a rigid and v-shaped material was worn on the abdomen for aesthetic purposes as well as to conceal the front of the corset.
17th and 18th Century
During the 17th and 18th centuries, the ideal of female beauty was an hourglass figure, along with an emphasis on having an erect posture, which was considered elegant. This fixation led to corsets being designed with shoulder straps specifically to ensure an upright stance by pulling the shoulders back and preventing slouching.
During this time, they were typically designed in a canonical or v-shape and often ornamented with decorations to make them more eye-catching. There were different variations like attached sleeves and embellished lacing, with some women even adding ribbons to it.
Oftentimes, many young women would lace their corsets extremely tightly to look more desirable, leading to serious health issues. It is also believed that women wore them with already boned dresses, to further enhance the hourglass figure.
19th century
The corset aimed to further enhance the slender waist and create a more pronounced hourglass figure. There was a deep fascination with emphasizing the dramatic difference between full skirts and small waists. As a result, they became more heavily boned with 60-100 whalebone woven to make it more rigid. The heightened desire for a curvaceous silhouette led to the introduction of steel stays. It was during the Victorian era, that the term “corset” was officially coined.
In 1827, eyelets were introduced which made the practice of tightlacing severe. and the front was fastened with a metal busk. The tightlacing led to severe health problems and harmed women’s reproductive organs, frequently causing infertility. The constricting garments were often lavishly embellished with silk brocades, and gold trimming, and decorated with frills, bows, and lace. Eventually, machine-made corsets were introduced, making them one of the earliest mass-produced garments for women. Before this, they used to be handcrafted.
Edwardian era
The corsetry further evolved in the Edwardian era that began in 1901 in England. The purpose of this body-shaping garment shifted from restriction to ease of movement, as a result, the heavy boning was changed. While small waists were still the norm, unlike the earlier corsets, those in the Edwardian era did not damage women’s internal organs and were made of softer materials like cotton and satin. The lacing and boning were also reduced, making them more breathable. As a result, a more natural silhouette was prevalent, with a slightly flared hip. Although corsets were still essential to emphasize a woman’s figure, the Edwardian era saw progress and a change in society’s attitude towards the well-being of women.
Post-World War I
The aftermath of World War I marked a significant shift in fashion. The metal previously used in corsets was repurposed for weapon production during the war, leading to a decline in their production.
In the 1920s, the ideal body standard for women changed again. In contrast to the once sought-after hourglass figure, a rectangular, straight silhouette became more desirable. This change in fashion trends led to shorter and less constricting corsets, allowing women freedom of movement and more room to breathe.
With the war’s impact on clothing materials and the evolving roles of women in society, there was a strong preference for looser and simpler attire. As a result, the traditional corset, which had long defined women’s silhouettes, fell out of favor and the introduction of girdles and brassieres gained popularity. As women gained more independence and autonomy in their fashion choices, the role of corsets in shaping their bodies and lives according to society came to an end.
21st century
In today’s times, women have reclaimed this shaping garment with confidence and creativity. With the rise of different fashion aesthetics like cottagecore and fantasy fashion on the internet, corsets are recreated and reimagined in infinite ways. They are now made from comfortable and soft fabrics and come in variations like corset tops. The versatility of this garment is impressive as it can be styled with trousers, mini skirts, dresses, and everything in between, whether layered or worn separately. It ranges from high fashion to fast fashion, with both celebrities and the general public adorning it.
It also goes beyond traditional gender norms, as it has been embraced by the LGBTQ community, as well as women of color, as a form of self-expression and identity. Moreover, It’s worn as a fashion statement rather than to appear slim, and comes in all shapes and sizes, highlighting inclusivity. For instance, Rihanna’s brand Savage X Fenty offers corsets and bustiers in plus sizes as well.
A corset that was once emblematic of society’s control over women now demonstrates their ownership.
See also
2 Comments
Pingback: How the Political Changes Affected the Skirt Lengths
Pingback: The Journey of the Skirt: How Political Changes Have Influenced Skirt Lengths Across Different Eras