Talks about making fashion more sustainable took center stage at last month’s Lakmé Fashion Week in India. But are the designers in the nation prepared for this?
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One of the main highlights of Indian fashion, the four-day event is organized by beauty giant Lakmé, billionaire Mukesh Ambani’s Reliance Brands, and the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI).
India’s Lakmé Fashion week
Fashionistas in the front row, clinking champagne glasses, and sparkling catwalks were all there, but what really caught people’s attention was a competition that encouraged young designers to make costumes using eco-friendly materials.
The occasion is a part of a larger goal among Indian designers to turn sustainability into their company’s primary driver.
Many claim to be attempting to reduce the environmental impact of their companies; some are switching entirely to reusable materials, experimenting with fabrics produced from leftover carpet or agricultural waste, and creating eco-prints of flowers and plants. However, considering the scope of the problem, experts advise doing much more.
India is poised to become a major role on the international scene as its fashion sector grows at an astounding rate, estimated to reach $115–125 billion by 2025. Similar to other places, the fast fashion industry is held mostly responsible for the harm, but analysts also attribute some of the blame to the luxury market. Especially considering that this market has been expanding quickly in recent years thanks to a new generation of young Indians who have more disposable income.
The industry is frequently accused of being hypocritical, of creating excessive harm while taking minimal action to stop it. Critics claim that Indian designers don’t always follow their own advice when using phrases like eco-friendly and sustainability in marketing campaigns. While some designers deny the charge, other industry insiders concur that it poses a significant obstacle.
The group vice-president of Reliance Brands, which has made significant investments in the luxury market recently, Jaspreet Chandok, claims that since everything is “work in progress,” there is no easy solution for how luxury fashion can combat climate change.
India’s choice of luxury
Although sustainability is frequently associated with environmental concerns, it should also address the working conditions of craftsmen, who are the backbone of the Indian fashion industry. India is one of the leading exporters of clothing and textiles, worth $44.4 billion, and some of the greatest names on the Paris and Milan runways depend on these incredibly skilled artisans to create their amazing hand-made costumes.
However, there have been claims that they operate in abusive environments; detractors claim that this practice has persisted under Indian names. The New York Times revealed in 2020 that one of the most well-known designers in India was being sued by laborers for unpaid wages.
But according to Mr. Chandok, a lot has been done to address the issue, and employees are now getting greater prospects and compensation. However, labor unions have stated that more work has to be done before equitable working conditions are realized. According to Ms. Singh, achieving sustainable fashion is a challenging task for which there are no simple solutions. Reducing production might be an easy fix, but ultimately, this is a corporation that employs millions of people.
Additionally, wearing eco-friendly clothes is not a magic bullet. Although materials like wood pulp and recycled polyester have a less carbon footprint, Ms. Singh notes that these materials still have an environmental cost because their manufacture may result in deforestation. She emphasizes that consumers also have a responsibility to make thoughtful decisions. Following the Covid-19 outbreak, there has been a slight shift in the way individuals think about the environment and make decisions, including what to wear.
