Paris – After just two days, the audience at Paris Fashion Week Men experienced a range of emotions on Wednesday, from laughter to tears. Standout looks included Kenzo’s neon brights, Walter Van Beirendonck’s clowns, Wales Bonner’s composure, and Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s seductive slickness.
Kenzo: Parisian gold mixed with Tokyo cool
In the Paris grounds of the Palais-Royal on Wednesday night, Kenzo, operating under the LVMH umbrella, investigated the fusion of Tokyo streetwear with Parisian gold.
Image Source: Fashion United
The men wore work clothes that were modeled by the attire of Japanese construction workers. The loose denim versions included vibrant hues ranging from yellow to orange and green in all possible tones.
The women, dressed in evening gowns made of beach crochet and bandeau tops resembling traditional Japanese wrapping cloths called furokishi, were less at ease.
Japanese designer Nigo’s exhibition was distinguished by a full-face zippered mesh balaclava and bomber, which are already essential pieces for the upcoming season.
Wales Bonner: An Anglo-Caribbean deluge
Born to a Jamaican father and a British mother, Wales Bonner, 31, has maintained her incredible rise to prominence in the fashion industry by winning the most prestigious prizes after graduating from Central Saint Martins in London in 2014.
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This season, she added a light summer shower to her identity-driven and cerebral approach, creating a collection that was influenced by “the vibrations of a seaside town.”
This varied range combined Caribbean crochet and designs with expertly tailored pieces, such as jackets worn over crimson unisex swim briefs, all in a range of deep reds and watery tones.
LGN: Returning with elegance
A highly influential collection centred around attractiveness and sensuality was showcased in the gardens of the Monnaie de Paris by the emerging sensation of French men’s clothing, who had fallen short with his last collection.
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The men’s designs were incredibly textural and provocative, with genderless dresses and skirts, suits that resembled daytime pajamas, and thick, slick leather suit coats.
The shirt, on the other hand, was now limited to wearing it tucked into pants and slightly puffed up, with a clever elastic waistband that gave the impression of a belt.
Walter von Beirendonck’s Belgian Mania
A generation of the LGBTQ+ “bear” subculture throughout the world looked up to Belgian designer Walter von Beirendonck, and with his clown-themed collection, he once again pushed the bounds of the absurd.
Image Source: Fashion United
Regression was parodied by the gargantuan neon costumes with a happy face on the bottom and a little cardboard celebration hat on top, worn with enormous polka-dot shoes.
Upon closer examination, though, it became clear that the designer was sending depressed clowns down the runway. These clowns were shown as teddy bears with bullet holes in them and clumsily painted lipstick grins.
Jeanne Friot, ‘harder’ to love
The collection, which was partially funded by Tinder, celebrated confident love at the exhibition by French designer Jeanne Friot, who created the idea of “gender f**k”—moving beyond classed or degendered fashion—on the roof of her school in Paris.
Image Source: Fashion United
Under an ominous sky, the designer, known for their strong advocacy of left-wing politics, sported a T-shirt displaying a message opposing “racism, sexism, homophobia, and transphobia.”
The collection celebrated “idols” who inspire self-assurance and authenticity, incorporating trompe-l’oeil, fishnet fabrics, and playful visual elements. Highlights included a dress crafted from numerous belts and a prominent oversized boot that served as a focal point, extending to mid-thigh in one ensemble.
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