Fashion serves as a time capsule and provides us with insights into the unique cultures and lifestyles of different eras. The lengths of skirts are also closely tied with the societal and political changes throughout history.
In prehistoric times, skirts were worn by both men and women simply to cover the lower body. Interestingly, in ancient Egypt, skirts were initially worn by men. Over the centuries, they evolved into an essential fashion element for Western women and continued changing throughout history, becoming a global fashion staple. The hemlines of skirts were influenced by a multitude of factors, including the status of women in society, as well as political and economic shifts. This article will take a deep dive into those factors.
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Roaring 20s
Before the 1920s, women had always worn long, full-length skirts and dresses. But this era planted the seed of receding hemlines for the coming decades. Thanks to the flapper girls, knee-length skirts were introduced.
Flappers were women who broke away from the rigid way of life women had been subjected to until then, showing a complete disregard for the prevalent gender norms. They showcased their rebelliousness by indulging in behaviors that were considered very scandalous at the time like drinking, smoking, driving, and attending parties in the evenings. Flappers did away with their corsets, chopped their hair to chin length, and embraced sleeveless, knee-length dresses with drop waists, to appear more masculine.
It was also a practical choice as the most trending dance of the time, the charleston, involved swinging arms and legs, which was simply impossible in the “ladylike” evening dresses of the time which were form-fitted and floor-length.
These knee-length dresses of the 1920s were also a political statement as the feminist movement had just gained women the right to vote in 1920, and women reflected their feminist beliefs through their fashion choices.
1930s- The Great Depression
The jazz age of the 1920s came to an end, and the extravagance and lavish outfits along with it. The stock market crash in 1929 led to a prolonged period of economic hardship, so fashion shifted to conservative and traditional styles and the skirts returned to longer lengths.
Contrary to the boyish silhouette, women started emphasizing their figure with higher, belted waistlines. As people could barely afford essentials during this time, practicality and functionality were prioritized in fashion. Longer skirts were made for women as they were versatile and could be worn on all occasions and seasons, often paired with blouses that had puffy sleeves and broad shoulders.
Despite the Great Depression, Hollywood had a major influence on women’s fashion choices, with actresses wearing sleek, backless gowns. The skirts during the day could be calf length, but evening gowns reached the floor and were figure-hugging to highlight a woman’s elegant silhouette. The infamous “bias cut”, added a touch of glamour, allowing women to feel stylish and sophisticated.
40s – Second World War
During the Second World War, a rationing system was implemented by the government to limit the consumption of scarce items, ensuring that they would be distributed equally. This rationing system limited women’s fashion choices, which meant that they had to be creative with their clothes. Also, manufacturers designed knee-length skirts and fitted silhouettes to conserve fabric.
Moreover, there was a drastic shift in gender roles, as women entered the corporate workforce, taking jobs that were traditionally reserved for men. Subsequently, their clothes became practical and comfortable. They wore tailored suits with knee-length skirts, while those who worked in the factories, wore jumpsuits and pants to move around freely.
50s- Post World War II
As the war ended, most women had to leave the workforce as men took over and were forced to assume their traditional feminine roles. The idealized image of a woman was that of a housewife, with many limitations imposed upon them.
Capitalizing on this, Christian Dior introduced the “New Look” that took over most of the decade. The new look featured a very wide, billowy skirt with a cinched waist and a fitted bodice. One other significant trend was a poodle skirt and skirts were either knee-length or full length.
Women were expected to look impeccable throughout the day, with perfectly groomed hair and spotless makeup. After a prolonged period of fashion deprivation, this glamorous style was seen as women celebrating their new lives. On the other hand, it could also be interpreted as a ploy to distract women from the loss of their jobs and independence.
The Swinging 60s
The 1960s was a decade of social and political upheaval, characterized by the civil rights movement, the fight for gender equality, the counterculture movement that resulted from US intervention in the Vietnam War, and the gay rights movement. Apart from this, the youth was introduced to new fashion trends and musicians like the Beatles.
Fashion in the 1960s was immensely inspired by the fashion designer Mary Quant who broke the traditional rules of fashion and introduced miniskirt. This fashion statement was emblematic of women’s newfound liberation. Apart from the mini skirt, Pants and shorts were also everyday options for women.
The Rock ‘n’ roll 70s
In the 1970s, there was a collective dissatisfaction with the US involvement in the Vietnam War, and hippie culture was prevalent. Fashion designers drew inspiration from prairie-style fashion, romanticizing a time that did not include war. This led to the return of the maxi skirt in various prints, such as ethnic, floral, and paisley, which were mostly worn during the day.
In the evening, fashion drew heavily from punk rock and disco, with wide-legged pants and skirts featuring groovy patterns, metallic fabrics, and sequinned materials.
Additionally, the 1970s saw the beginning of gender-neutral fashion as gay culture became more open. As gender limitations were still rigid, it was considered taboo for men to wear skirts, but artists like David Bowie and Mick Jagger challenged these norms by embracing androgynous clothing.
Now, a versatile fashion staple, this is the long and short of the history of skirts.
If you liked this article, consider reading The Revolutionary Journey of the Corset: From Female Subjugation to Empowerment.
