Virginie Viard, the creative director of Chanel, is leaving the French luxury brand after a successful thirty years of service, including five years as artistic director. On June 5th, Vogue Business received an official confirmation from the Chanel brand..
The luxury house press statement read that “Chanel confirms the departure of Virginie Viard after a rich five-year collaboration as artistic director of fashion collections, and she was able to renew the codes of the house while respecting the creative heritage of Chanel.”
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Virginie Viard as Karl Lagerfeld’s Legacy
In 2019, after legendary designer Karl Lagerfeld passed away, Viard took on the role of artistic director. Bringing fresh energy to the label while preserving the classic elegance for which Chanel is renowned, she oversaw editorial direction. The fashion industry recognized and respected her for her original yet reverent interpretation of Chanel’s legendary legacy. With a blend of modern features and classic Chanel aesthetics, Chanel collections under her leadership never failed to enthral audiences.
The upcoming haute couture Autumn/Winter 2024–25 collection, which is due to be displayed as planned on June 25 at the Opéra Garnier in Paris, will bear Viard’s influence even after her departure. This collection will probably operate as a tribute to her influential direction and vision from the previous years.
Viard’s Long Tenure at the Fashion House
Virginie Viard’s career with Chanel began in 1987. During her time at Chanel, Viard combined her own modest refinement with an abiding admiration for Chanel’s traditions. She placed emphasis on a style that was warmer and softer than Lagerfeld’s dramatic flair.
During her time there, the designer promoted celebrity ambassador collaborations, giving the brand a more trendy touch. Under her direction, celebrities including Timothy Chalamet, Kristen Stewart, Kiera Knightley, Lily Rose Depp, and Blackpink Jennie were featured prominently in Chanel’s commercials, highlighting the brand’s cultural relevance.
Praise and Criticism
Audiences and fashion critics reacted differently to Viard’s creative endeavors. She was praised by some for preserving Chanel’s iconic style while adding fresh flexibility and elegance. Her creations typically featured soft accents, monochrome styles, and easy silhouettes, making them accessible to people who liked subtle elegance.
The most common critique of her designs was their lack of flair and inventiveness. She received heavy criticism for her Autumn 2024 collection. For instance, some people labelled it as unimaginative and unappealing. Viard’s vision for Chanel was criticized for failing to exceed its boundaries far enough for more creative endeavors and that the company ran the risk of stagnating while she was in charge.
Commercial Success
Viard had been in charge of every major commercial success during her tenure at Chanel. Revenues for Chanel increased tremendously under her management, indicating a high level of consumer demand for the brand’s products. Her ability to boost sales suggests that, despite the divided opinions surrounding her work, Chanel’s consumers find her appealing.
Viard’s Departure and Chanel’s Future
The French billionaires Alain and Gerard Wertheimer own Chanel, the second-largest brand in the world following Louis Vuitton, owned by LVMH. For years, there have been rumors that Chanel might be recruiting a new designer. Most recently, these rumors have resurfaced after notable individuals in the fashion industry, such as Alessandro Michele, the former designer of Gucci, were recruited by Valentino.
Leena Nair, the chief executive of Chanel, dismissed these speculations earlier this year about Viard being replaced. She recalled how the sales of Chanel’s ready-to-wear clothing had increased significantly under Viard’s guidance, and they had seen a rise in its sales after the pandemic. The surge in the fashion industry following the COVID-19 outbreak has subsided as consumers cut back on their spending as a result of mounting living expenses.
Virginie Viard’s exit aligns with the industry’s transition to slower development, as a number of major labels—including Burberry, Valentino, and Gucci, all owned by Kering—are looking for fresh creative approaches to boost sales.
